Info Manual

--> just an update to my post signaling side mirror, now as well as the face of the side mirror..heres the link for PART 1

High power leds from 1 watt up to 5o watts of power needs a constant current driver in order to gain a respectful efficiency, than just using those big bulky white coated limiting resistors, that not just only robs the total power of your leds, but produces poor efficiency that kills the potential of your LEDS.

A 1 watt high power leds in my opinion needs at least a 350mah constant current driver to produce its total luminance, whereas a 3 watts needs 700mah, a 5 watts needs a 1A driving current and so on and so forth.


In the picture above, is a 3 watts X 3 watts high power leds made by SEOUL semicon model P4 i ordered online. It been driven at a selectable switch in a 350mah and 700mah constant current configuration, using a switching mode type circuit. Commonly known circuit that can be used are, NCP3063 by ON semiconductor
LM3404 by national , the cheaper MC34063 by motorola...etc etc.

sample circuit as shown here:

Constant current LED brake light tail light module. Ever wonder how to make your filament bulb type tail / brake light to all leds, the solution is to use a constant current led driver with additional mosfet as switch for brake light so that the usual tail light will switch from dimmed to full brightness on the leds. More often, enthusiast uses just again the limiting resistor type of controlling the brightness of the light emitting diode installed on the bike, as i had said from all of my previous post about led, in order for them to stay consistent and works longer, a constant current driver will protect your led installed.

Wireless helmet stop lamp is a gadget that when you hit your brake, stop lamp at the rear will lit to alert incoming motorist that you are braking, every vehicle must have a red (take note) RED colored stop light to alert them. This wireless helmet stop lamp gadget i think will add safety to a rider during night riding. It works as an additional link with the existing rear brake light via the transmitter that will be wired parallel on the stop lamp wiring. Then the receiver which is embedded on the helmet lamp module will receive the signal from the transmitter.


I am thinking of having such gadget like this a long time ago on my zeus 508w, but of course in my own approach..The DIY thing. Although this kind of gadget is possible ordering online via credit card, which i do not own one, so my only option was to make one just like this but again in a different approach that will be my next project very soon. Will be on the drawing board for this one and i am anticipating it to be very useful to me like my signal lights bar end, and side mirror with signal lights for added visibility at night.

This is my helmet, as you can see the outer edges of the visor emmits blue light without having the entire visor, the visibility was not affected unless your visor have scratches and dents, that the light will penetrate too. Some people think its kind a dangerous to put light that will affect visibilty, but this mode does not as lights will not be focus directly to your eyes unless you concentrate looking at it instead of focusing on the roads.
This mods takes a little time to assemble and make.
You just need

• two cellphone supebright leds,
• a length of enamel wire at least number 26AWG, and or any unused earphone wire thats enameled coated.
• a li-ion battery preferably 4 volts, 
• a push button tact switch and
• a know how to solder.

just take out the visor, and put the leds on each two edges.

Led lighting solution for motorcycle are the trends of enthusiast from filament bulbs of their signal lights thus improving night time visibility and faster response of LED including signal lights, tail lights and brake lights, soon even headlights will be led..THIS is light emitting diode era anyway.
My DIY led amber signal lights.
All you need is a PCB board, couple of leds, resistor of 470ohms for the three in series, a wedge type holder, a small signal diode 1n4148 for reverse polarity protection..and a solder know how technique.



this is how it lights offset from the camera to see the effect.

This is my digital tachometer i made a long time ago on my suzuki shogun 125cc and still in active up to date. The tachometer incorporates a programmable shift lights, the red line can be programmed depends on where to shift at a certified RPM...watch the video to see it in action.

Having a handle bar end lights is pretty cool as well as added visibility during night time riding, There are lots of aftermarket part like this and sold almost everywhere at a very reasonable price. There is only one drawback on them, all are battery operated and somehow cannot be modified to work as an additional signal lights. So why not make a customized unit that can be directly tap on your motorcycle voltage supply as well as to your signal lights path to make them flash and just lit steady when signal is deactivated.

Many article posted here actually have photos and videos showing my bar end at work, and many of you are thinking how to make one, well sorry for the late responses. This article and post will show at least an idea on how to produce your own glowing bar end lights.

This page an update to my previous post Project LED headlight to where i incorporate it already to my sinski 150cc headlight housing. (actual BEAM shot on road not yet taken)

The photo shown with a beam shot taken at an angle of 45 degree in front.






Constant current led driver is needed to prolong the life of the led array and to compensate for the changes in input voltage during use.























The headlight housing to where i'll be incorporating this led headlight prototype to replace my scooter filament type headlight. The original uses 35watts for low beam and 35 watts for high beam.









Headlight lens need to be removed in order for me to fit the led headlight collimating lens. The cover of the headlight was easy to dismantle..(note that new or brand new housing is not that easy to remove because of the anti moist glue.) my headlight perhaps due to the long period it was stock, the glue just didnt stick that much, and dis assembly was a snap.






With the original bulb remove, the hole to where my led headlight bare board, is actually fit, like pair made for each other..:-)) and no more additional drilling holes for this project.









Perfect fit without the collimating lens.












with collimating lens attached on the led array to focus the beam in front.











view of the heatsink for the bare board of the led array. Heatsink is needed, (fan not necessary when the bike is moving, rushing air in front will cool down the heatsink..










And its time to power up the led headlight to see how it went well. I used for this test 12 volts 1.5 ampere wall adapter.

Suzuki FL-125 suzuki logo illuminated.




Illuminating those emblem logo on your motorcycles..is sometimes a head turner .featuring  costumized suzuki logo illuminated version...This suzuki hayate is from a friend who dire to have his scooter something to look for..a simple head turner without altering its original look as is.

After some time of thinking how to make one..i finally decided to go for it and try to install one using my knowledge..At last, though still in a temporarily dry run to see how it paired..here it is

Power led is the new era of led lighting, both at home and automobile use. They come in a variety of it, from 1 watt up to 20 watts..being 20 watts made by china of course..


http://www.philipslumileds.com/
Lighting Company is the world's leading manufacturer of high-

Ever seen a ford expedition with just a full REAR red lights where a signal, tail and brake lights are done by those RED lights. They are called INTEGRATED rear lights and can be done on motorcycles too. Take a look at the video. This was the very first version of my diy works with my bike a long time ago, to where my signal lights tail lights and brake lights are compose with just an array of led at the rear.







Circuit:

I used this circuit posted led-brake-light This will be your TAIL/BRAKE light controller, it needs two of this for left and right led array assembly. to incorporate the SIGNAL lights on this circuit, we have to use two 12 volts miniature relay.







two of this single pole single throw relay will be used to switched the negative line of the led array on the circuit above. The NC or normally closed pins will be used. Look at the modified schematic below.








Cut the negative path of the led array from the driving mosfet and wired it to the normally closed pins of the relay so that when powered on the path of that negative pin of the array is still connected. And when you turn on the signal lights, the relay will be activated thus cutting the line of the led array producing a flashing effect on your integrated rear lights. This circuit by the way will be on all the time, that when you on the ignition switch, your tail light must be on so that the rear signal lights function during day time.


Part list:

D1-D2= 1n4007
ZD1= 15volts /1watt
ZD2= 9-14 volts / 500mw
L1=22uh
C1=15uf/35v
R1 / R4= 10k ohms
R2 = 1.3 ohms
R3 = 16.1 ohms
R5 = 2.2k ohms
VT1 = 2n3904
VT2 / VT3 = mtp3055e (mosfet)

for signal lights add on

RL1 / RL2 = 12 volts miniature pcb relay

I know many of you wondering what's inside a household led lighting such as this one shown on the photo. A 5 watts led light with E27 type socket, same as those CCFL energy saving lamp. They are commonly been found nationwide on hardware store, supermarket and electronic supplies at an affordable price. Being an enthusiast and a DIY'er, i got curious again what was inside this kind of household lighting. I recently bought one for another experimentation and wanted to take a peek inside.



By twisting the diffuser, at last the leds came out and i wasn't surprised at all. 5 pieces of 1 watt led was used to bring out the 5 watts specification of this led lighting. They were soldered on an aluminum piece of PCB, to where they will act as the minimum heatsink, and the violet (purple) fins as the main thermal support for the assembly. Getting deeper onto it, i desoldered the board to the main heatsink and

Been thinking of using 5mm leds as park light and signal lights as well, in replacement for filament type ones to conserve battery energy and minimize discharge activity to prolong its life..and came my first revision that uses the 5mm leds as park lights.

FIRST revision LED park lights.............still i used it for almost 2 years on my bike without no problem but then since i am an enthusiast and craving for more far ideas, i might think of..came my second revision. An alternating park and signal lights in action