Info Manual

Filament bulb tail brake light bulb often failed due to the vibration at the back of any motorcycle, and it is un noticeable by the rider up until they are warned that they do not have a brake light to alert motorist at the back that you are stopping. I was once caught with a busted rear end light, thus this keeps me think of "Why not replace it with LED bulbs instead of filament bulb". In this way, i can conserve battery power, more reactive light at the rear when stopping, Yes led reacts faster than filament bulbs.

This page an update to my previous post Project LED headlight to where i incorporate it already to my sinski 150cc headlight housing. (actual BEAM shot on road not yet taken)

The photo shown with a beam shot taken at an angle of 45 degree in front.






Constant current led driver is needed to prolong the life of the led array and to compensate for the changes in input voltage during use.























The headlight housing to where i'll be incorporating this led headlight prototype to replace my scooter filament type headlight. The original uses 35watts for low beam and 35 watts for high beam.









Headlight lens need to be removed in order for me to fit the led headlight collimating lens. The cover of the headlight was easy to dismantle..(note that new or brand new housing is not that easy to remove because of the anti moist glue.) my headlight perhaps due to the long period it was stock, the glue just didnt stick that much, and dis assembly was a snap.






With the original bulb remove, the hole to where my led headlight bare board, is actually fit, like pair made for each other..:-)) and no more additional drilling holes for this project.









Perfect fit without the collimating lens.












with collimating lens attached on the led array to focus the beam in front.











view of the heatsink for the bare board of the led array. Heatsink is needed, (fan not necessary when the bike is moving, rushing air in front will cool down the heatsink..










And its time to power up the led headlight to see how it went well. I used for this test 12 volts 1.5 ampere wall adapter.

Led headlights are now widely installed on motorcycle nationwide. With their low power consumption and ampere draws from the battery, It has bloom out into the open and every motorcycle shop offers a variety from dual led to triled, to projector type with angel eyes, and all have different characteristic on how to install, the later was the difficult type fitting inside the headlight assembly. Dual and Tri are the easiest and more economical to use for the fitting will just be like of the original bulb Rear entry.

How to install RTD triled on a Yamaha MIO SOUL properly? Very easy actually, but readers must be advised that to power the Led, DC must be used, unfortunately, almost all motorcycle and scooters original headlights are powered by AC being supplied by the stators. When you switch ON your headlight as the engine is running and the bulbs and panel lights are fluctuating, then automatically, It is AC powered and have to be converted first to DC before installing Led Headlights.
Mio soul is the easiest one to convert since the panel lights was already DC. Isolating the wire the has the AC driven source for park and headlight and redirected to the supply of the panel lights as shown on the left picture.

When done.
Installing the led and replacing the bulb is by using the supplied connector, follow the procedure within the manual supplied on how to attach it to the bulb socket.

Original DUST cap

Note: The original bulb of the headlight on this scooter model have a DUST cap..as shown. to protect it of course from outside debris that may enter at the back of the assembly, and that wehn the bulb was replaced by RTD triled. There is no way to return the dust cap and leaving it without any will be a disastrous and costly. So we need to improvise.

look for any sort of plastic cap of the same size of the original but with more height, in my case, I use the cap of a choke/carburetor cleaner that fits perfectly with same outer diameter as the original and when it was placed to cover the RTD triled.
Perfect fit as shown, just put some small amount of super glue..DONE!!!

Wiring is not that difficult too, since the system was already converted to DC headlight. follow the instruction of the three wire to which is which,

Mio soul color code for the headlights are this
1. Green wire --low beam
2. Yellow wire --high beam
3. Black --ground

The approach is not to cut any wires to preserve the original wiring in case problem arises with the led replacement and always ready for the refitting of the original bulb headlight.

View of RTD triled inside the reflector

 Connection is shown . With the soldering is done, yes solder it. just do not twist or tap it to avoid getting it lose. Cover the original bulb socket with electrical tape to avoid touching any metal part of the chassis, for it is still live when you turn on the led headlight.
 Park light only TRILED off

low beam

 TRILED ON

Hi beam

Ever seen a ford expedition with just a full REAR red lights where a signal, tail and brake lights are done by those RED lights. They are called INTEGRATED rear lights and can be done on motorcycles too. Take a look at the video. This was the very first version of my diy works with my bike a long time ago, to where my signal lights tail lights and brake lights are compose with just an array of led at the rear.







Circuit:

I used this circuit posted led-brake-light This will be your TAIL/BRAKE light controller, it needs two of this for left and right led array assembly. to incorporate the SIGNAL lights on this circuit, we have to use two 12 volts miniature relay.







two of this single pole single throw relay will be used to switched the negative line of the led array on the circuit above. The NC or normally closed pins will be used. Look at the modified schematic below.








Cut the negative path of the led array from the driving mosfet and wired it to the normally closed pins of the relay so that when powered on the path of that negative pin of the array is still connected. And when you turn on the signal lights, the relay will be activated thus cutting the line of the led array producing a flashing effect on your integrated rear lights. This circuit by the way will be on all the time, that when you on the ignition switch, your tail light must be on so that the rear signal lights function during day time.


Part list:

D1-D2= 1n4007
ZD1= 15volts /1watt
ZD2= 9-14 volts / 500mw
L1=22uh
C1=15uf/35v
R1 / R4= 10k ohms
R2 = 1.3 ohms
R3 = 16.1 ohms
R5 = 2.2k ohms
VT1 = 2n3904
VT2 / VT3 = mtp3055e (mosfet)

for signal lights add on

RL1 / RL2 = 12 volts miniature pcb relay

Angel Eyes comes in a variety from flourescent or CCFL type down to LED type. There are numerous homemade version also, and as a DIY'er. I will post one here , from using an ACRYLIC rod bent to a circle form and put a high flux led at both ends to for a circle of light like in the photo as shown, step by step procedure will be documented for all diy'ers.

ACRYLIC rod is very difficult to find at local store, only sheets are. But do you know that those so called VENETIAN BLINDS that some houses use to their windows to block the sun have this kind of rod. :-)

There it is, the clear rod hanging from the blinds. It is actually the rod that they rotate to open and close the blinds.

For the materials and tools that we will be needing to perform this DIY are
1. The rod of course
2. heating element, (HEAT GUN, hot air gun or station) note: do not use any flames on the rod or it will produce bubbles inside that will ruin the rod when lighted
3. Led 2 pcs color of your desire
4 shrinkable tube--more on this later
5. soldering iron and lead
6. pieces of long wire for the leds
7.  2 pcs 1 kohm resistor--to limit the current on the leds when 12 volts is used
8.  mini drill to put holes and rings around the rod
9. cutting disc, drill bits, or any means that can put holes at each edge of the formed rod--later on this one

 Firstly, form the venetian blind acrylic rod to a circle form by using the heat gun, and any means of former like bottle or coffee ceramic cup (what i used), taking precautionary measure not too heat up too close to what i did and get bubbles on the rod that may affect the light output later, shown on the photo is my error.



Another shot of the bubbles, (need to sand it later)











Secondly, after your circle form, the product must look like this, ( the bubble failure still visible at the top right portion of the ring.










Its time to make way for the LED to be fitted at both ends of the ring, just drill down to a led size as shown, to secure the led at the edge, to make it nice and clean do not use electrical tape, use SHRINKABLE tube, this rubber tube shrink when heated, available at local electronic parts supply stores nationwide or you can get it online.






 I am not actually pleased with the result with a simple effect on the clear tube since a transparent tube will just waste some of the light being emitted by led by passing through on them, so i decided to put some effect on the rod by cutting small lines along the rod as shown.
 closer view of the cut.
 when done cutting along the line will look like as shown.

 now finishing the other led at the edge with limiting current resistor in place must look like this.
and LIGHTS on..

not as flashy like the CCFL type angel eyes but worth a try.