Info Manual

Installing High Intensity Discharge on a small motorcycle which utilizes the Half Wave charging system will surely have lots of problem when it comes to battery not being charge to the fullest when using HID. This kind of lighting system actually not common to users consume a lot of current from striking the bulb all the way up to where it stabilizes. Even the re-striking from momentarily turning off the HID SYSTEM consumes battery power.

How to compensate for the loss of charge when using HID system?...The answer, by converting the original half wave system into a full wave generator, by altering the winding of the generator inside the crankcase. Looking at the graph of each type below.



By analyzing each of the graph generated by such system, it is very obvious that the full wave 3P when rectified and filtered produces a clean stable dc, that is why many sportsbike and higher displacement machine uses this kind of system. But why do they not used this on smaller bikes like moped and scooters.

Probably because of COST and size of the system. that is why manufacturers, instead relied on the low cost smaller size half wave generator system for carbureted type small machines. We cannot denied the fact, low cost means limited function.

Fuel injected nowadays been incorporated to small bikes like Shogun FI, honda scoopy I, and almost but not all bikes in thailand uses FI uses the three phase system already, so fitting HID system is of no trouble.

But how about to carbureted type?

It can be done, again by changing and converting it to full wave system to generate a more stable dc that will charge the onboard battery and compensate the losses done by the HID system..

FURTHERMORE, never insist the half wave system is enough for hid installation. It is simply not enough even if upgrading to a larger battery capacity.

Disclaimer: I will not held responsible if something goes wrong upon using this conversion without enough knowledge of how the system works, and electrical / technical skills at hand.. BE ADVISED that this modification is not intended for beginner or first time doing it. 

Getting deeper.

Materials needed.

1. full wave rectifier / regulator (known as R / R too many) like this Full wave regulator 5 wire
2. soldering iron at least 50-100watts
3. high temp insulator tube  
4. OPTIONAL : New crankcase cover gasket (when returning the modified stator and placing the cover back to the engine) 
5. A digital or analog multimeter (tester too many)

This stator is from a Suzuki SKYWAVE 125cc, same with shogun FD125XRM and Shogun FL125. There are three wire soldered to its connector base, find the ground by using a mutimeter set to OHMS , connect the black probe to the stator body and red probe to any of the three soldered wires.

The one with the lowest reading of the three is the wire connected directly to ground, with the highest being the end of the winding that will be used later, the last winding will not be used since it is the lighting coil output and will be disregarded all through out the procedure.

Remove the soldered wire to the stator body to FLOAT all windings...(all windings must not touch the body of the stator, full wave will have its own ground via the BRIDGE rectifier of the FULL wave regulator.)

With the ground wire desoldered from its original position, insert the high temperature tube and solder the wire removed from the lighting coil..

FOR SHOGUN its the yellow wire with white strip.

For other brand..please follow your wiring diagram.


what we trying to do here is getting the two end of the stator winding and removing the GROUND from the stator body as shown on the illustration.


when done, first is first..check for continuity and resistance of the whole winding before returning back the cover to ensure everything done is OK!!

Getting ready to wire the regulator from the modified generator



It is very difficult to know if the purchased R/R is a half wave or full wave if check only by appearance although manufacturers uses color coded wire like the photo shown, perhaps by using a diode tester (multimeters) and check every wire, we might be able to distinguished them. As i had told you, there are 4 pin and 5pin full wave available out in the market. If in a way you find such like as shown then probability is they are the same.



By following the color of the wires

1. Green -- ground
2. Red    -- to battery positive line
3. Yellow -- to charging coil (any of the two winding out from the stator)
4. Pink --- to charging coil (interchangeable with yellow)
5. Black --- To after ignition key switch

To be sure and safe, for this test use appropriate FUSE  within the positive line going to the battery. its the last line of defense when it comes to possible wrong connection.

Disconnect all loads from the battery, if you have access to another way of supplying your CD ignition then do so..because we have to start the engine to perform TEST. with the help of the multimeter set to DC voltage. tap it to the battery that is connected to the regulator..

GREEN to black probe
RED to red probe

check voltage....you are reading the battery voltage, on the ignition key and take a look at value, after turning on the key engine OFF, the voltage must not be dropping and stay close to the initial reading.

kick the KICK starter, and stay it at idle, monitor the voltage. READING must now be moving up possible to 13 volts or 14 volts..(depends on the condition of the battery)..

SLOWLY REV the engine while monitoring the voltage reading of the tester.....

as you are revving the engine..voltage must stay close to 15 volts not over 16 volts (overcharging threshold of lead acid battery)..

if all test performed are ok with regulator not to temperature....PUT a load on the battery such as your HID installed...then start the SAME TEST again...

at first when you turn on the High intensity discharge system..at IDLE the voltage must not be dropping and will stay close to 12-13 volts..

if it is, then the system is already working..By looking at the graph above..FULL wave due to the better DC filtering, at idle or low rpm still charging the battery unlike the HALF wave where in the dc is fluctuating.

Full wave also has a better shunting than half wave to the configuration of the rectifying diodes.


NOW u can enjoy your HID system, just make sure you are responsible enough to stoop down the beam for others. happy motoring.



NOTE: since the lighting coil is disconnected and no longer used, all that was connected before will be redirected to the battery being battery operated.

UPDATED

For the full schematic diagram of the regulator on this article, you can visit this link

FULL WAVE REGULATOR SCHEMATIC

VIDEO of this conversion. (many thanks to Thiago Ken Fuzita)

Here is another voltage regulator for motorcycle design to be used on single phase stator.
This is the simplest full wave design commonly used on almost all commuter bikes  with 4 pin connector. Do not be mistaken with the half wave versions, for this one cannot be used on half wave stator design to which the other end of the windings is directly connected to ground. Again this is for a  FULL WAVE converted stator design and modifications.
By looking at the schematic, and comparing it to my previous post of voltage regulators, it is almost identical, with the design, and only component values are different. C1, R1, Q1, D1, and R3 compromising the sensing and regulating circuit, whereas D2,D3, Q2 and Q3 are the shunting components of the stator winding.


D4 to D7 are your rectifiers that converts the AC coming from the stator to DC for charging your battery. With the values as shown, the output of this regulator is 14.4 at 5000rpm. You can modify this circuit for your intended application, to output 15 volts rather than 14.4 for quick charging of your battery when there are too much load on your system, by altering D1, to 13 volts rather than 12.6 volts..
This system is Stator dependent...meaning, this can't output more power on what your stator can give, all charging system power rely on your stator max output...

Part list


R1= 3.3k ohms
R2= 1 k ohms
R3= 1.5k ohms
R4= 100 ohms
Q1= 2n5401
C1= 10uf / 25volts
D1= 12.6 volts zener / 1 watt
D2 /D3= 1n4007
SCR1 /SCR2= bt151-500 or bt151-600
D4-D7= bridge rated 100v 10A

A full wave regulator is a type of regulator mostly found on small motorcycle that can enhance the charging system of motorcycle battery. It can be bought in a four pin or in a five pin configuration as shown on the left. It is also being used widely by enthusiast that convert their single phase half wave generator onto a full wave by altering the stator windings.

Wondering what is inside this kind of regulator and how it differs from those commonly used HALF wave regulator, you are in luck for i have the time and resources to open up this donor regulator. it took me hours of heating up, scraping the coating to expose the main board and parts.

Here it is.

with the help of a portable blow torch, soldering iron, a small flat screwdriver, and a bit of patience, I carefully removed the top coating of this regulator exposing the bottom of the PCB. and noticed the smd (surface mount devices). Seeing that makes me more careful of not scrapping them from their location.

Patience is the key when doing this kind of hobby.




















HOURS later,


Have to desolder first all components to pull out the pcb.














 The bridge rectifier that needs to be heatsinked.
 the epoxy residue..(too tough to scrape)
 top view
 side view

back view
















And the schematic of this board


By comparing this to my previous post

Single Phase Shunt Regulator (full wave)

They are almost identical, but as i have said, the regulator above is a five wire type, the schematic shown on left is a four pin type. The difference, the circuit within the link is always connected to the battery thus leakage is present. while as this regulator has a wire (BLACK) that is connected after the ignition switch and not directly to the battery.

It was used for one reason:

1. when ignition off, monitoring circuit of the schematic is disabled, no current will be taken from the battery when stored, or park.

We have a saying " its better to have more than to have enough" This particular five wire regulators can be used on four wire type. just connect the black and red together..

By looking at the schematic, and comparing it to my previous post of voltage regulators, it is almost identical, with the design, and only component values are different. C1, R1, Q1, D1, and R3 compromising the sensing and regulating circuit, whereas D2,D3, Q2 and Q3 are the shunting components of the stator winding.


D4 to D7 are your rectifiers that converts the AC coming from the stator to DC for charging your battery. With the values as shown, the output of this regulator is 14.4 at 5000rpm. You can modify this circuit for your intended application, to output 15 volts rather than 14.4 for quick charging of your battery when there are too much load on your system, by altering D1, to 13 volts rather than 12.6 volts..
This system is Stator dependent...meaning, this can't output more power on what your stator can give, all charging system power rely on your stator max output...

Note: further again..the generator to be used here do not touch the ground or not connected to any ground. 

Shogun FL125 charging system is actually the same as shogun FD125XRM. This article will show you how to test your electrical preferably the CHARGING and lighting system.













CHARGING and LIGHTING wiring diagram



Here i'll be giving you where and what to check if you are having problems with battery charging and lighting problems. You'll be needing a multi meter a digital with a diode test to perform troubleshooting your own bike.

LOCATION of SHOGUN FL125 Regulator 


The regulator is located in front when you take off front cover, shown in number 2 with part number SH672, remove the connector shown in number 1, set your multimeter to diode test and follow the next picture for the right data.

You dont need to turn your ignition, this is to test the leakage on your Regulator.







The reading of all the test must be close to what is written above, if there is a short or almost 0 on the digital read out then the Regulator is defective.

If all test of the regulator is OK!! we then proceed with the generator system and lighting coils resistance and voltage.

GENERATOR Resistance and Voltage check

Set the digital multimeter in resistance range.


Disconnect the  black connector as shown to perform resistance and voltage check, this is the connector of the generator, other is for the pick-up coil and ground.














for lighting coil resistance, connect the multimeter probe to Y/W (yellow with white strip wire) and to ground..

The reading must be
0.4 - 1.0 ohms

and for the charging coil, connect probe to W/R (white wire with red strip) and ground.

The value must be
0.6 - 1.2 ohms


VOLTAGE CHECK

NOTE: 
This check must be taken with safety because we are talking about AC voltages here. No wires from the generator must not touch any metal on the chassis. Youll be needing to crank the engine and rev to 5000 rpm to test the generator output.



Multimeter is set to AC voltage range. connect probes as shown, AC do not have polarity so either way..

W/R and ground rev at 5000 rpm must read
50 volts AC or more but no more than 100 volts

Y/W and ground rev at 5000 rpm should read
40 volts AC or more but not more than 80 volts

readings not close or lower than the specified value means there are problems with the generator windings, either there are short due to exposed wires inside and or the skin coating of the enamel wires of the windings are already exposed to the oil.

GOODLUCK with the test.

UPDATED

Full schematic wiring diagram of this bike can be found here

SHOGUN COMPLETE WIRING DIAGRAM