Blinks Code For
Sony Lcd Klv26t400a
Sony Lcd Klv26t400g
Sony Lcd Klv32t400a
Sony Lcd Klv32t400g
Sony Lcd Klv40t400a
Sony Lcd Klv40t400g
Sony Lcd Blink Code For 32t400a



For More information about Repairing And tips of Repairing
Feel Free to call Mr. yogesh 9811440932(Delhi)


To Download Sony t400 Blinking chart
Click here To Download

Sony Lcd Klv26s310a
Sony Lcd Klv32s310a blinks
Sony Lcd Klv40s310a blinks
Sony Lcd Klv26v310a blinks
Sony Lcd Klv32v310a blinks
Sony Lcd Klv40v310a blinks
Sony Lcd Klv26d310a blinks
Sony Lcd Klv32d310a blinks
Sony Lcd Klv40d310a blinks
Sony Lcd Klv26u310a blinks
Sony Lcd Klv32u310a blinks
Sony Lcd Klv40u310a blinks
Blink code

2time----- Abnormal Main Power Voltage abnormal

3time----- Abnormal Panel Voltage(DCALERT1)

4time----- D5V/9V Power Voltage(DCALERT2)

5time----- (DCALERT3)

6time----- Backlight Failure(Inverter Board)

7time----- Internal temperature Rise

8time----- Audio Voltage(audio error)

9time----- FAN ERROR(HFR model only)

10time----- Digital FE error

11time----- Trident Bus Error(Trident Communication B/t IC)

12time----- HFR Error

13time----- Balance Error


For More Information about FE, Trident Bus ,HFR
feel Free to call Mr Yogesh 9811440932(Delhi)

Download Sony 310 Blink Chart
Click Here To Download

Sony Lcd Klv26s300a
Sony Lcd Klv32s300a blinks
Sony Lcd Klv40s300a blinks
Sony Lcd Klv26v300a blinks
Sony Lcd Klv32v300a blinks
Sony Lcd Klv40v300a blinks
Sony Lcd Klv26d300a blinks
Sony Lcd Klv32d300a blinks
Sony Lcd Klv40d300a blinks
Sony Lcd Klv26u300a blinks
Sony Lcd Klv32u300a blinks
Sony Lcd Klv40u300a blinks
Blink code

2time----- Abnormal Main Power Voltage abnormal

3time----- Abnormal Panel Voltage(DCALERT1)

4time----- D5V/9V Power Voltage(DCALERT2)

5time----- (DCALERT3)

6time----- Backlight Failure(Inverter Board)

7time----- Internal temperature Rise

8time----- Audio Voltage(audio error)

9time----- FAN ERROR(HFR model only)

10time----- Digital FE error

11time----- Trident Bus Error(Trident Communication B/t IC)

12time----- HFR Error

13time----- Balance Error


For More Information about FE, Trident Bus ,HFR
feel Free to call Mr Yogesh 9811440932(Delhi)

Download Sony 300 Blink Chart
Click Here To Download

Panasonic PLASMA TH42PV60A BLINKS

Panasonic PLASMA TH42PV60H BLINKS

Panasonic PLASMA TH42PV60M BLINKS

Panasonic PLASMA TH42PV60MT BLINKS

GP9DE CHASSIS

Power led blinking timing chart
power led blinking 1 time
power led blinking 2 times
power led blinking 3 times
power led blinking 4 times
power led blinking 5 times
power led blinking 6 times
power led blinking 7 times
power led blinking 8 times
power led blinking 9 times
power led blinking 10 times
power led blinking 11 times
power led blinking 12 times



Click Here to Download

Boards

Click Here to download

Blink codes for all sony Klv S200 Model

Blink codes for sony klv23s200a
Blink codes for sony klv26s200a
Blink codes for sony klv32s200a
Blink codes for sony klv40s200a


1time---- abnormal AU Power Voltage(DCALERT3)
2time---- abnormal D5V/9V Power Voltage(DCALERT2)
3time---- Abnormal Panel Voltage(DCALERT1)
4time---- Backlight Failure(Inverter Board)
5time---- Abnormal Main Power Voltage
6time---- Audio Voltage(audio error)
7time---- Internal temperature Rise
8time---- IC5000

For More Information and Repairng Tips Feel Free to call
Mr. Yogesh 9811440932(delhi)

Download Blinks of Sony 200a
Click Here To Download Chart

How to Open Factory Mode in LG Lcd
How to Open Service Mode in LG Lcd
Methods 1 LG Service Menu Access Method 1
2 LG Service Menu Access Method 2
3 LG Service Menu Access Method 3
4 LG Service Menu PIN/Password Codes


LG Service Menu Access Method 1 Press and Hold button on remote as well as TV
panel at the same time for a few seconds.

LG Service Menu Access Method 2 Press and hold the {MENU} button on the remote and
the {MENU} button on the TV at the same time for at least 5-7 seconds.



LG Service Menu Access Method 3 Press and hold the {MENU} button ON THE REMOTE until
a 4-digit password screen is displayed.

LG Service Menu PIN/Password Codes 8 7 4 1
8 7 4 3
7 7 7 7
0 0 0 0
8 8 7 8
0 4 1 3

Too many problems may be felt within the clutch system of small commuter motorcycles if it is not given some time to be checked at least every 5 years depending on the mileage and the way the motorcycle is driven. Nowadays, friction plates are getting cheaper. but the process of inspecting this critical part of any motorcycle is not an easy task especially if it is a multi-plate, wet clutch system. Often times, clutch drag and slipping clutch is a very common problem we may encounter.

Photo shown came from a 10 year old 125cc motorcycle, it was never been inspected up until this writing. The friction plate provided the groove to where the rest during operation. Notice the four groove s only at one side of the clutch basket (the other side do not actually have it, since the motorcycle is being kept moving forward and the rotation is always clockwise).

This photo shows how the friction plates and the steel plates are netted together inside the outer clutch basket.

They are stack in a friction plate followed by steel plates alternately, and is covered by the inner plate with the clutch spring attached to it.

If you want to know how this system works.You can watch it here to be familiar with it.


The Outer clutch basket i think is in lieu for replacement, but up to this writing, with no enough resources to do so, i will re use it and instead will be modifying it to accept an additional steel plate and another friction plate to make it a FIVE (5) piece clutch system..

Note: The whole procedure of the modification will not be discussed, for the stock clutch basket is not intended for an additional friction plates. Replacing washers, taking the tight clearances of the whole basket must be considered and any miscalculation on anyone's part will be a disastrous one inside the engine. So this modification is not for the masses. 

The next photo will reveal that it is indeed too tight for an additional friction plates and steel plates on a stock hub or stock clutch basket.

The look of the STOCK with four plates attached.

The look of the MODDED stock basket with five plates installed.

Now I know many of you will ask?

What is the ADVANTAGE of having a stock four friction plate on a modded five friction plate installed?

Ans: I did try to test drive it to see if i can still shift to any gears, that because of the tight spaces between the friction plate and the steel plate, as i read from the internet, only a small gap is needed to release the tension on each and one of them to DISENGAGED the whole clutch system from driving the the drive shaft.

The torque of power transfer within the system improves. The motorcycle now pulls a lot of it during uphill climb that even on my third gear..

(By the way the stock sprocket of my motorcycle is 14/35 to where it was change to 16/34 prior to the modded clutch system and do not pull at third gear on uphill with four piece friction plates.)

I wanted to test it on a stock combination to feel the difference but up to this moment i am enjoying the current 16/34 (low speed sprocket ratio)..

Again, the POWER TRANSFER of the crankshaft to the drive shaft by the clutch was improved.

Lesson to be learned from here is that.

1. Often times when you are replacing the FRICTION plates on your motorcycle when it is time for the replacement, be sure to check the outer basket for groove. The groove makes the friction plate stick on it, thereby making it difficult to shift at times..no many times, because when the plate is stuck they do not disengaged with the steel plates.So better check it.

2. Do not grind the groove, friction plate must not have slack on that area. if the groove is too much..replace the whole clutch basket, inner and outer is a MUST.

Panasonic PLASMA th-42u30U BLINKS

Panasonic PLASMA th-42u30K BLINKS

Panasonic PLASMA th-42u30 BLINKS

Power led blinking timing chart
power led blinking 1 time
power led blinking 2 times
power led blinking 3 times
power led blinking 4 times
power led blinking 5 times
power led blinking 6 times
power led blinking 7 times
power led blinking 8 times
power led blinking 9 times
power led blinking 10 times
power led blinking 11 times
power led blinking 12 times

Have ever been cleaning your entire brake system especially the front brake? Did u ever suspect that it needs an overhaul cleaning to make it  more effective? or Does anyone have a sticking front brake system? This page will tell you that often times which i forgot for many years, the front brake system must be inspected and clean for a more reliable braking system of our motorcycle. So dammed fool of not having it inspected for so many years, that even thought the system still works without cleaning, The pad sticks to the brake rotor causing my front wheel not spinning freely. And so let the tear down begin.

First is to drain all the brake fluid using a hose and an empty plastic bottle of soda. insert first the close wrench number 8 on the brake caliper drain plug bolt and insert the hose to it.

This is to ensure no FLUID will be getting on your precious magwheels and paint. (corrosive substance) and all fluid will get to the plastic bottle. By opening the drain plug bolt, we can now release the brake fluid out from the reservoir by pressing the brake lever on and off until none of the fluid is visible. If you have an extra bottle of DOT-3 brake fluid, you may pour it on the reservoir to push all dirty brake fluid at the hoses and caliper itself so that fresh fluid will be at the hose and brake caliper when putting it all together again. You can also do this procedure later.

 After releasing all fluid inside the reservoir, , it is very difficult to take it out. After minutes of trying to remove it, finally the piston is out. Since this is i think the second time it has been remove in a 10 year span, the fluid already corroded some of it, in lieu with those white powder.

CIRCLIP REMOVER TOOL
it can be remove from the handle bar and put it on a bench table for rework and general cleaning and inspection. Now the hard part, without the so called
This is a very bad sign, and i think in need of replacement but then this is a DIY page, so i'll still be reusing all of the parts. It will just be clean and remove unwanted debris.

NOTE:  But for readers, it is highly advisable to replace the whole piston assembly with new one. This is to ensure your front brake will not fail. The replacement part is very cheap. You can buy one at every friendly local shop available.

Here is a diagram of every component of the front brake master.

Continuing with the tear down, when the circlip that locks the piston to chamber was remove, the piston can be pulled out from it.

Here we can see the entire piston set of the brake master and photo says it all, YUCKY!!! too much dirt and sediments all over it. I wonder how it still works with that kind of dirt.

close up, that is the view of not totally having a routine check on the entire front brake system of a motorcycle.

Note again to the readers: If you find yourself like this on your motorcycle front braking system, please be advise to change it entirely. Do not re use for fail safe system.

Continuing with the process of my cleaning saga.

With the piston removed from the cylinder, cleaning the master reservoir only needs cloth that is damp with brake fluid. (use only brake fluid, no water, no soap) i used old toohbrush with NYLON bristles on cleaning the entire reservoir. The rest of the picture will tell how bad is this brake master.



and after minutes of cleaning the debris inside the chamber and the reservoir itself..patience makes a lot of difference, ready for assembly and bleeding the entire front braking system on this 125cc motorcycle.

when inserting back the piston to the cylinder. make sure you drop some brake fluid, this will help the primary and secondary cup sealed with the cylinder and glide normally inside of it. Lock the piston with the Circlip double check if is placed inside the groove. then put the dust cap back in its place.



we are now ready for bleeding, the act of removing old fluid inside the hoses and brake caliper.


Pour in fresh brake fluid onto the reservoir, make it full as in full tank. Press and release in cycle the brake lever and see the fluid gets in the hose. When doing this you will see bubbles when you are pressing the lever on and off. this means that the fluid is getting in. Make sure you are topping up when it goes to low level..Continue press and release the lever until it has already a slight tension to it..BLEEDING will come next.

When the lever got any tension on it..(i think you'll be needing someone to press that lever or if u can reach the bolt down while pressing the brake lever, I can call you that you a FANTASTIC man.. :) lol.

1. As you are pressing the brake lever,
2. open the drain plug to release the tension and push the fluid onto the drain plug. When there is no more fluid coming out from the drain hose we fitted onto the drain plug..close it again.and release the lever..press and release again the lever to get another tension and do it again the procedure on bleeding.

Do that procedure until all old fluid came out and that new fluid is coming out already.This is a sign that new fluid is already onto the system and you will have a tension on that front brake lever..

Top the reservoir on the correct level and return the DIAPHRAGM, the set plate and the cover and bolt it..The entire front brake system is done.

Now when you did cleaned the system and the front wheel is not spinning freely. Then the brake caliper is locking and in need of cleaning. The common problem with sticking disc brake is that, it does not return to the idle state when the piston of the caliper pushed the brake pad to the rotor..ROD that connects the caliper to its bracket as shown


This is the job of those number in 10, 15, 9, and 8. It needs to be cleaned.

photo shown next is where to put new grease so that when the caliper push the piston towards the brake pad..the grease will the push back the caliper to the idle state and releases the pad that is in contact with the brake rotor.






Good luck to your cleaning saga!!!..I have speed but without healthy BRAKING system...SPEED KILLS..

Motorcycle Voltage regulator protects the battery from overcharging by shunting the coil winding, that is why it is an important part of any motorcycle electrical. Replacing a defective unit is a trial and error process if u will be using an aftermarket one and not the OEM replacement.

This post is not against aftermarket but why in the world a friendly motorcycle shop offer a regulator like this. Costumer ask for one, seller gave this part, of course the buyer would not tell the difference between a good and a bad one, i'd say really a BAD one, a FAKE voltage regulator in a well formed housing. (sad).

Out from curiosity, a friend of mine who have a HONDA wave wanting his charging system be converted to full wave system to accommodate the High Intensity Discharge lighting installed. He decided to buy a full wave regulator from his friendly motorcycle part store. I was confused when i test for resistances between pins and only found two pin with resistance. And since i build regulators for motorcycle, i knew there is wrong his unit, that instead of using it, i installed my prebuilt one and enjoy using his HID.
As part of understanding voltage regulator, i opened the regulator. Patience if u want the board intact, hard headed mode if u want it dispose after opening.
Left is the problematic voltage regulator. This regulator will be left destroyed unlike from my previous post here FULL wave regulator that i need the board intact and replicate it. From the very first smash of my flat screwdriver on the aluminum casing, I already know it is FAKE!!! no circuit board.

Moving on, I also noticed bits of sand, What the heck? Sand inside the unit, hmm (at the last of this page i'll tell you the purpose of that sand.)

No circuit board is found on the connector side, All you can see is on the photo.

DIODE. yes only diode soldered on two pin, other two pin not connected, so that is why i  only get one resistance from all the pin available. Too bad. If this unit was place and use on board your motorcycle. Lots of thing may happen, One can overcharge your battery, boil the plates and spill out electrolyte that will cause corrosion on chassis and metal of your bike. Two is overvoltage within your entire electrical system, bust the lights, a defective igniter, and worst, Fried wiring harness.

So as part of educational purposes, Be aware of fake voltage regulators, buy from a reputable store or online products, and do buy a branded one.

CONCLUSION:
The sand was placed inside the fake regulator for one purpose only. WEIGHT. the regulator without any circuit board and just diode will weigh less and may be very noticeable by the buyer. (clever idea huh!) but you cannot fool the ones who know to use the resistance meter. (take that!!!)

RECOMMENDATION
use multimeter and test all possible pin available with the probe, if u get one resistance from all the pin, it is likely to be fake. Just don't plug it in your motorcycle electrical system, test it on the bench.

How to open factory mode of samsung lcd
To open service mode in Samsung lcd
To open factory mode in Samsung lcd

press power off
display-->menu-->mute-->power on

this service code is applicable for only samsung lcd and led
for all models
samsung la32c3350
samsung la32r81
samsung la32r71a_b
samsung le40r81
samsung la32m81
samsung la40m81
samsung ln40n81

This are some DC-CDI opened black boxes with its epoxy filled removed, and to understand and be familiar with each CDI being offered in the market, i may say some are almost identical and some are too complex to experiment with.

Here, a DC-cdi picture from whom an emailer sent to me and asking for some help. credit to you and thanks, I labeled this in order for others to understand which is which and what to look for.

--> just an update to my post signaling side mirror, now as well as the face of the side mirror..heres the link for PART 1

Let us take a look inside the speedometer panel of a suzuki shogun 125cc, as shown on the left with speedometer pointer  and lcd remove. The main controller of this panel is a chip made by fujitsu with part number MB89943 which is an 8-bit cpu, controlling everything from the movement of the speedometer needle, lcd display. and counter. Data then are stored like odometer, speedometer reset, fuel gauge calibration on the a microwire bus eeprom with part number L46R.


 Shogun 125cc user espescially those 2006 model and below experiencing odometer stuck up to 99,999.9 and uncapable of resetting itself back to zero..unfortunately newer model already have its own data stored on the eeprom that resets the odometer after reaching the said value.


The only solution to this problem is to inject the new data stored on newer speedometer panel eeprom to IC5 (L46R) by using an eeprom programmer like IC prog with interface such as tait serial programmer and or JDM programmer.

sony lcd factory mode

how to open sony lcd service mode
how to open sony lcd factory mode

To open factory mode of sony lcd press
step1-power off
step2-display
step3-press 5
step4-vol+

To save factory setting press 0 and mute
sony klv32s200
sony klv32s300
sony klv32s400
sony klv32t400
sony klv32s550
sony klv32v550
sony klv32v300
sony klv32d300
sony klv32u300
sony klv32s310
sony klv32v310
sony klvs32a10
sony klv32d310
sony klv32u310
sony klv32v400
sony klv32t550
sony klv32bx300
sony klv32bx3600
sony klv32bx400
sony klv32bx600
sony klv32ex400
sony klv32ex600
sony klv40zx1m
sony klv26s200
sony klv26s300
sony klv26s400
sony klv26t400
sony klv26s550
sony klv26v550
sony klv26v300
sony klv26d300
sony klv26u300
sony klv26s310
sony klv26v310
sony klvs26a10
sony klv26d310
sony klv26u310
sony klv26v400
sony klv26t550
sony klv26bx300
sony klv26bx3600
sony klv26bx400
sony klv26bx600
sony klv26ex400
sony klv26ex600
sony klv40zx1m
sony klv40s200
sony klv40s300
sony klv40s400
sony klv40t400
sony klv40s550
sony klv40v550
sony klv40v300
sony klv40d300
sony klv40u300
sony klv40s310
sony klv40v310
sony klvs40a10
sony klv40d310
sony klv40u310
sony klv40v400
sony klv40t550
sony klv40bx300
sony klv40bx3600
sony klv40bx400
sony klv40bx600
sony klv40ex400
sony klv40ex600
sony klv40zx1m

SEC 6 riders conquer baguio with mini loop

First and formost, I would like to congratulate SEC for conquering Baguio City, for the successful though partial of its firstever long ride as ONE.

Friday night, riders gathered at petron macapagal where sec will depart on route to baguio highest point area and at exactly 12:45am of Saturday off we go, The midnight ride was so clear as plan running nearly 80 kph on Macarthur to meet up with one of the rider at shell station near sm Valenzuela, I Leibog, apol with Sheryl, genezide with a Honda guest rider, chad_gz, leoj longrider (JOEL) with backride meet up with nepoy at exactly 1:30am and from there commence our journey prayer and as minutes pass by we decided to proceed as plan, the first few kilometers was a ROAD SWEEPER, the cold humid air was a thriller, where leoj ahead of the pack our spearhead for the day and as I the sweeper of the troop with genezide along side. Then as kilometers registering on our ODOMETERS, I noticed genezide was signaling something he lost something, his registration through his lace. So we decided to get back 1 kilometer back to look for it. But it wasn’t there so we get back on track but then I noticed his back area and there was the lace. A false alarm he thought it was missing.

Then at nearly entering malolos bulacan area. Another un expected turn back of the whole ride came at around 3 am Genezide again for the second time encountered something weird on his bike, as if losing power, at first I noticed something on my visor liquid spots as if I thought it was raining then I signal genezide to up the PACE, but then hes engine died and pull over to the shoulder.

This was the turn around of the time plan of the ride, a major engine trouble, was foreseen. As I inspect the bike, I saw something weird, oil draining on the drain plug area. He tried to kick but cant move the kick starter, he even jump start the bike, even the rear wheel aint moving when gears engage, and I told him stop, I will inspect. Then I noticed..”WHERE’s the drain PLUG” that’s it. All of the oil of his engine was gone, SEIZING the engine.

The troops get back to look for us, one by one came back. At first I didn’t know theres an internal problem, we tried to pour in another set of oil a HAVOLINE auto oil just to see if we can kick the bike still cant move it, by this time, theres a major problem, we thought of valve hitting the piston, and or theres a piston stuck up, and so since its midnight theres no way to knoe the problem unless we open up the engine block and head and so we did since I have some experience opening up the shogun engine me and chad join hands to open up. We checked valves, OK then we remove the block. There we saw the pistons not freely moving.

It was then the piston pin SEIZE due to lack of oil. IT WAS STUCKED UP. We tried to move it just to make the bike run to the nearest shop afterwards but we cant. Since we are lacking of parts and machineries to do so, they suggest to get back on track push the bike to nearest shop and wait for it to open. I thought pushing the bike will eat up all of our time, I recommend to pull the bike with my bike, and our GUEST Honda rider offered his “NYLON DUYAN” to be the pulling rope and then I pulled the bike up to the san Fernando gapan intersection where leoj suggested. At nearly 5am there we stop tried \knock the shop to open up. Someone came out. At last the caretaker. We were blessed they will open up the shop just for US early.

As they were now fixing the bike it was nearly 7am, it was then the bike needes new piston, rings, and pin but the shop have no stck. Their staff gear up and look for one at some nearby shop and at 8 am the kit was put to the bike. Some of us take a nap. It was tiring. Then as soon as the whole bike was fixed off we go. Genezide forced to pay 2.5k to move on. And so we did.

From there I decided its time to put up my I,provised video coverage, the recorder put to the u-box and camera at the front. The ride was then in full force still I was the sweeper of the pack and as we approach our normal pitstop. I was at the back of the pack and because of the slow pace, I felt sleepy so I up my face overtake them so that they up their pace too so they did. Passing by luisita tarlac area nearing tarlac city there we stop we were so exhausted. Take a break coffee and sandwich that was nearly 11am already.

We didn’t let minutes pass by more on that stop gear up off we go again. We are all hungry for lunch time. We decided to take up the meal at URDANETA pangasinan, still I was so sleepy, again I up the pace conquering the road at nearly almost full throttle overtake here there even the huge VICTORY liner aint gonna stop me from pulling hard the bike to its limit, I was running 120 kph on YUKO mode from time to time just to be there at urdaneta. At last I reached the site, I pulled over rest and at nearly almost 10 mins of waiting, they arrived one by one. we then ate at CHOWKING urdaneta, we were all exhausted.

It was then almost 1 pm already when we ate our lunch. Rest a little then gear up on track. Now I decided to lead the pack. Still I was too sleepy decided to run pull force on track. Until we reached the rosario Y. I didn’t know we were turning left on the junction so they HONK me, I U-turn, I let them go ahead. Now im a sweeper again.

We reached kennon road toll gate. It was 3:30pm, we checked our gas tank, some of us low on fuel so I told them fill up it will be uphill, next gas station will be inside baguio, so 3 of us heads back to fill up. The 4 pm pass by we go. It was a windy road ahead, there was some gravel on track so proceed cautions,

The twisties was fun, from the foot of kennoni document the ride up to lions head with video, we reached the head. Pull over take some snapshots of the group rest a little. Off we go again by then it was 5pm.

At last we reached baguio, we look for house for rent we then met one and tried to see the place, but were not satisfied then we get back on track proceed to THE MANSIONS area to wait someone whom GENEZIDE contacted to seek help. We wait it was then I noticed it was an MCPF former, ( forgot again the name). the group met up with him that was nearly 5:45pm. I asked them we have no time anymore, and that one of our rider NEPOY suggest we stay to the place he contacted before. IT was an Adventist. Lots of BAWAL, no smoking, no liquor. It was then almost 6:30pm we got our rest. Prefare food some of us take a shower. And the day moves on. It was too tiring of our first day. But a least we got our needed rest. Thank God!!!


As they were resting I decided to seek baguio areas, I ask them where I can find PARTAS bus terminal for I have someone coming over through bus then before I found the terminal I got lost inside baguio. Far from where we r resting. At nealy 12 am of the 30th I was at the terminal to fetch ny visitor. Then we get back to look for our resting area. The instinct of mine didn’t stop me from finding the place. It was then the end of a long journey for the day.


November 30,

As sunrise shadowing us. We get up early, still genezide wasn’t contented because of the oil filled on his bike was an AUTOMOBILE one, his bike pulled very poorly on kennon, so he drained it and replaced it with a motorcycle based one. I with leoj long rider took baguio to look for an extra helmet, and passenger pegs. We got to naugillian road, and there I bought one pair of pegs but no helmet available. So we get back decided to look inside SM BAGUIO. From there again almost all of us are together once more, still I was looking for an extra helmet for my passenger then at around 1pm we all get back at the Adventist to take a shower for the first objective. Our guest rider was off before morning struck, we didn’t know where to, so 6 of us gathered for our objective.

THE LOURDES GROTTO, we proceed and nearly 3 pm we got to the grotto, we then climb the 252 steps of the grotto as part of my objective we prayed took some shots, shop at some stalls nearby. Then heads back to burnham park and market, we took the boat ride it was FUN its like an exercise for our tiring ride.

We then proceed to the market for pasalubong shopping. That was 6pm already, after that we got back at the resting place. That was the end of our day at baguio then our guest rider came. Still he wasn’t telling us where he came from. We gathered. Since it was forbidden to drink inside the Adventist compound, we took out the liquor secretly, then drink up. I didn’t noticed what happened next I was asleep by then since I am not drinking hard liquor. Before that we were talking about the highest point ride, but since our time plan wasn’t on our side no longer we decided not to take it. There was once someone nepoy in particular decided we took sagada on this day and stay there until tomorrow. It wasn’t agreed upon due to time. That’s the end of the day

December 1.

Early up some of us still asleep I was once told them I’ll take off at 3 am but because of the climate. “SARAP MATULOG” centralized aircondition all over baguio he he I wake up 6 am. Took breakfast still all of them asleep maybe because of the liquor they take. Then one by one decided to get up maybe because of the noises I am committing, jejeje its like my WAKE UP CALL. They took their breakfast too shower and get ready to take off. AT 8am we go on track. BYE BAGUIO, we then proceed to marcos hi way route to be as safe due to them have heavy belongings KENNON aint good for us. The pacing was good, climate was perfect road conditions downhill with twisties, FUN. I was ahead of the pack conquring the twisties, I didn’t even using engine break since the road conditions was perfect unlike marilaque road here was wide, enough to lean the bike even with backride, genezide was on my tail decided to pull over at one gasoline station on the road. One by one came to a stop took coffee noodles and rest until an Unexpected news came. NEPOY front tire was flat nearly causing him and his backride to spill. Thanks god he controlled the bike perfectly. We then pull out his front tire then proceed to a nearby vulcanizing shop. APOL gave him a ride.

It was then almost 10:30am when we took of at the gasoline station decided to take lunch at urdaneta again. Same place so we did, at around 12:30pm. Getting back home was up pace almost nearly 100kph all the time. Too tiring, I then decided to re up my pace overtook them and waited for them at tarlac tarlac city around 3pm. Then after 30 minutes of waiting one by one came, and told me if I was stop by some LTO official nearby, they were. I am not. They were thankful enough for the officer hospitality letting them thru without penalties since one of our rider had an expired license

We again took the road by this time I decided to be the sweeper, we approach clark area decide to pull over for some picture taking at a park inside clark field. We took the porak dike road, rain shower came on at some point that didn’t continue. Thank god.

It was then 7:30 pm when we reach manila, and from there we took our path way back home safely.

The baguio ride was so successful though partial because we didn’t able to conquer highest point. This time, but hopefully soon and not just 7 riders to conquer it.

CONGRATULATIONS SEC riders.
We RIDE AS ONE

i wanted my bike to look as if it never been costumized, and that i wanted it to look like just the original bike i bought 4 years ago, and so i committed myself on making an S that glows in the dark

I carefully slice an S to the original front cowling of this bike and embed a fiber plastic that is curve to an S thoroughly and embed it on that s hole and that's how it was done.

The two lights behind the headlight was an original signal lights that was costumized to look like a park light then blinks on the direction i am going when using my signal lights.

As to another costumization done as if it was never there was the BAR END lights, never to be found at the market.

The bar end blinks in syncronize to where i am signalling to the direction of the turn, this mod i usually do to other bike was so cool, that i loses time for my family just to manually craft this mode by hand and power tools, that if only i have such machine to do the work will mean less effort and maybe possible to mass produce for others.

Installing High Intensity Discharge on a small motorcycle which utilizes the Half Wave charging system will surely have lots of problem when it comes to battery not being charge to the fullest when using HID. This kind of lighting system actually not common to users consume a lot of current from striking the bulb all the way up to where it stabilizes. Even the re-striking from momentarily turning off the HID SYSTEM consumes battery power.

How to compensate for the loss of charge when using HID system?...The answer, by converting the original half wave system into a full wave generator, by altering the winding of the generator inside the crankcase. Looking at the graph of each type below.



By analyzing each of the graph generated by such system, it is very obvious that the full wave 3P when rectified and filtered produces a clean stable dc, that is why many sportsbike and higher displacement machine uses this kind of system. But why do they not used this on smaller bikes like moped and scooters.

Probably because of COST and size of the system. that is why manufacturers, instead relied on the low cost smaller size half wave generator system for carbureted type small machines. We cannot denied the fact, low cost means limited function.

Fuel injected nowadays been incorporated to small bikes like Shogun FI, honda scoopy I, and almost but not all bikes in thailand uses FI uses the three phase system already, so fitting HID system is of no trouble.

But how about to carbureted type?

It can be done, again by changing and converting it to full wave system to generate a more stable dc that will charge the onboard battery and compensate the losses done by the HID system..

FURTHERMORE, never insist the half wave system is enough for hid installation. It is simply not enough even if upgrading to a larger battery capacity.

Disclaimer: I will not held responsible if something goes wrong upon using this conversion without enough knowledge of how the system works, and electrical / technical skills at hand.. BE ADVISED that this modification is not intended for beginner or first time doing it. 

Getting deeper.

Materials needed.

1. full wave rectifier / regulator (known as R / R too many) like this Full wave regulator 5 wire
2. soldering iron at least 50-100watts
3. high temp insulator tube  
4. OPTIONAL : New crankcase cover gasket (when returning the modified stator and placing the cover back to the engine) 
5. A digital or analog multimeter (tester too many)

This stator is from a Suzuki SKYWAVE 125cc, same with shogun FD125XRM and Shogun FL125. There are three wire soldered to its connector base, find the ground by using a mutimeter set to OHMS , connect the black probe to the stator body and red probe to any of the three soldered wires.

The one with the lowest reading of the three is the wire connected directly to ground, with the highest being the end of the winding that will be used later, the last winding will not be used since it is the lighting coil output and will be disregarded all through out the procedure.

Remove the soldered wire to the stator body to FLOAT all windings...(all windings must not touch the body of the stator, full wave will have its own ground via the BRIDGE rectifier of the FULL wave regulator.)

With the ground wire desoldered from its original position, insert the high temperature tube and solder the wire removed from the lighting coil..

FOR SHOGUN its the yellow wire with white strip.

For other brand..please follow your wiring diagram.


what we trying to do here is getting the two end of the stator winding and removing the GROUND from the stator body as shown on the illustration.


when done, first is first..check for continuity and resistance of the whole winding before returning back the cover to ensure everything done is OK!!

Getting ready to wire the regulator from the modified generator



It is very difficult to know if the purchased R/R is a half wave or full wave if check only by appearance although manufacturers uses color coded wire like the photo shown, perhaps by using a diode tester (multimeters) and check every wire, we might be able to distinguished them. As i had told you, there are 4 pin and 5pin full wave available out in the market. If in a way you find such like as shown then probability is they are the same.



By following the color of the wires

1. Green -- ground
2. Red    -- to battery positive line
3. Yellow -- to charging coil (any of the two winding out from the stator)
4. Pink --- to charging coil (interchangeable with yellow)
5. Black --- To after ignition key switch

To be sure and safe, for this test use appropriate FUSE  within the positive line going to the battery. its the last line of defense when it comes to possible wrong connection.

Disconnect all loads from the battery, if you have access to another way of supplying your CD ignition then do so..because we have to start the engine to perform TEST. with the help of the multimeter set to DC voltage. tap it to the battery that is connected to the regulator..

GREEN to black probe
RED to red probe

check voltage....you are reading the battery voltage, on the ignition key and take a look at value, after turning on the key engine OFF, the voltage must not be dropping and stay close to the initial reading.

kick the KICK starter, and stay it at idle, monitor the voltage. READING must now be moving up possible to 13 volts or 14 volts..(depends on the condition of the battery)..

SLOWLY REV the engine while monitoring the voltage reading of the tester.....

as you are revving the engine..voltage must stay close to 15 volts not over 16 volts (overcharging threshold of lead acid battery)..

if all test performed are ok with regulator not to temperature....PUT a load on the battery such as your HID installed...then start the SAME TEST again...

at first when you turn on the High intensity discharge system..at IDLE the voltage must not be dropping and will stay close to 12-13 volts..

if it is, then the system is already working..By looking at the graph above..FULL wave due to the better DC filtering, at idle or low rpm still charging the battery unlike the HALF wave where in the dc is fluctuating.

Full wave also has a better shunting than half wave to the configuration of the rectifying diodes.


NOW u can enjoy your HID system, just make sure you are responsible enough to stoop down the beam for others. happy motoring.



NOTE: since the lighting coil is disconnected and no longer used, all that was connected before will be redirected to the battery being battery operated.

UPDATED

For the full schematic diagram of the regulator on this article, you can visit this link

FULL WAVE REGULATOR SCHEMATIC

VIDEO of this conversion. (many thanks to Thiago Ken Fuzita)