Info Manual

How to Open Factory Mode in LG Lcd
How to Open Service Mode in LG Lcd
Methods 1 LG Service Menu Access Method 1
2 LG Service Menu Access Method 2
3 LG Service Menu Access Method 3
4 LG Service Menu PIN/Password Codes


LG Service Menu Access Method 1 Press and Hold button on remote as well as TV
panel at the same time for a few seconds.

LG Service Menu Access Method 2 Press and hold the {MENU} button on the remote and
the {MENU} button on the TV at the same time for at least 5-7 seconds.



LG Service Menu Access Method 3 Press and hold the {MENU} button ON THE REMOTE until
a 4-digit password screen is displayed.

LG Service Menu PIN/Password Codes 8 7 4 1
8 7 4 3
7 7 7 7
0 0 0 0
8 8 7 8
0 4 1 3

Too many problems may be felt within the clutch system of small commuter motorcycles if it is not given some time to be checked at least every 5 years depending on the mileage and the way the motorcycle is driven. Nowadays, friction plates are getting cheaper. but the process of inspecting this critical part of any motorcycle is not an easy task especially if it is a multi-plate, wet clutch system. Often times, clutch drag and slipping clutch is a very common problem we may encounter.

Photo shown came from a 10 year old 125cc motorcycle, it was never been inspected up until this writing. The friction plate provided the groove to where the rest during operation. Notice the four groove s only at one side of the clutch basket (the other side do not actually have it, since the motorcycle is being kept moving forward and the rotation is always clockwise).

This photo shows how the friction plates and the steel plates are netted together inside the outer clutch basket.

They are stack in a friction plate followed by steel plates alternately, and is covered by the inner plate with the clutch spring attached to it.

If you want to know how this system works.You can watch it here to be familiar with it.


The Outer clutch basket i think is in lieu for replacement, but up to this writing, with no enough resources to do so, i will re use it and instead will be modifying it to accept an additional steel plate and another friction plate to make it a FIVE (5) piece clutch system..

Note: The whole procedure of the modification will not be discussed, for the stock clutch basket is not intended for an additional friction plates. Replacing washers, taking the tight clearances of the whole basket must be considered and any miscalculation on anyone's part will be a disastrous one inside the engine. So this modification is not for the masses. 

The next photo will reveal that it is indeed too tight for an additional friction plates and steel plates on a stock hub or stock clutch basket.

The look of the STOCK with four plates attached.

The look of the MODDED stock basket with five plates installed.

Now I know many of you will ask?

What is the ADVANTAGE of having a stock four friction plate on a modded five friction plate installed?

Ans: I did try to test drive it to see if i can still shift to any gears, that because of the tight spaces between the friction plate and the steel plate, as i read from the internet, only a small gap is needed to release the tension on each and one of them to DISENGAGED the whole clutch system from driving the the drive shaft.

The torque of power transfer within the system improves. The motorcycle now pulls a lot of it during uphill climb that even on my third gear..

(By the way the stock sprocket of my motorcycle is 14/35 to where it was change to 16/34 prior to the modded clutch system and do not pull at third gear on uphill with four piece friction plates.)

I wanted to test it on a stock combination to feel the difference but up to this moment i am enjoying the current 16/34 (low speed sprocket ratio)..

Again, the POWER TRANSFER of the crankshaft to the drive shaft by the clutch was improved.

Lesson to be learned from here is that.

1. Often times when you are replacing the FRICTION plates on your motorcycle when it is time for the replacement, be sure to check the outer basket for groove. The groove makes the friction plate stick on it, thereby making it difficult to shift at times..no many times, because when the plate is stuck they do not disengaged with the steel plates.So better check it.

2. Do not grind the groove, friction plate must not have slack on that area. if the groove is too much..replace the whole clutch basket, inner and outer is a MUST.

Panasonic PLASMA th-42u30U BLINKS

Panasonic PLASMA th-42u30K BLINKS

Panasonic PLASMA th-42u30 BLINKS

Power led blinking timing chart
power led blinking 1 time
power led blinking 2 times
power led blinking 3 times
power led blinking 4 times
power led blinking 5 times
power led blinking 6 times
power led blinking 7 times
power led blinking 8 times
power led blinking 9 times
power led blinking 10 times
power led blinking 11 times
power led blinking 12 times

Have ever been cleaning your entire brake system especially the front brake? Did u ever suspect that it needs an overhaul cleaning to make it  more effective? or Does anyone have a sticking front brake system? This page will tell you that often times which i forgot for many years, the front brake system must be inspected and clean for a more reliable braking system of our motorcycle. So dammed fool of not having it inspected for so many years, that even thought the system still works without cleaning, The pad sticks to the brake rotor causing my front wheel not spinning freely. And so let the tear down begin.

First is to drain all the brake fluid using a hose and an empty plastic bottle of soda. insert first the close wrench number 8 on the brake caliper drain plug bolt and insert the hose to it.

This is to ensure no FLUID will be getting on your precious magwheels and paint. (corrosive substance) and all fluid will get to the plastic bottle. By opening the drain plug bolt, we can now release the brake fluid out from the reservoir by pressing the brake lever on and off until none of the fluid is visible. If you have an extra bottle of DOT-3 brake fluid, you may pour it on the reservoir to push all dirty brake fluid at the hoses and caliper itself so that fresh fluid will be at the hose and brake caliper when putting it all together again. You can also do this procedure later.

 After releasing all fluid inside the reservoir, , it is very difficult to take it out. After minutes of trying to remove it, finally the piston is out. Since this is i think the second time it has been remove in a 10 year span, the fluid already corroded some of it, in lieu with those white powder.

CIRCLIP REMOVER TOOL
it can be remove from the handle bar and put it on a bench table for rework and general cleaning and inspection. Now the hard part, without the so called
This is a very bad sign, and i think in need of replacement but then this is a DIY page, so i'll still be reusing all of the parts. It will just be clean and remove unwanted debris.

NOTE:  But for readers, it is highly advisable to replace the whole piston assembly with new one. This is to ensure your front brake will not fail. The replacement part is very cheap. You can buy one at every friendly local shop available.

Here is a diagram of every component of the front brake master.

Continuing with the tear down, when the circlip that locks the piston to chamber was remove, the piston can be pulled out from it.

Here we can see the entire piston set of the brake master and photo says it all, YUCKY!!! too much dirt and sediments all over it. I wonder how it still works with that kind of dirt.

close up, that is the view of not totally having a routine check on the entire front brake system of a motorcycle.

Note again to the readers: If you find yourself like this on your motorcycle front braking system, please be advise to change it entirely. Do not re use for fail safe system.

Continuing with the process of my cleaning saga.

With the piston removed from the cylinder, cleaning the master reservoir only needs cloth that is damp with brake fluid. (use only brake fluid, no water, no soap) i used old toohbrush with NYLON bristles on cleaning the entire reservoir. The rest of the picture will tell how bad is this brake master.



and after minutes of cleaning the debris inside the chamber and the reservoir itself..patience makes a lot of difference, ready for assembly and bleeding the entire front braking system on this 125cc motorcycle.

when inserting back the piston to the cylinder. make sure you drop some brake fluid, this will help the primary and secondary cup sealed with the cylinder and glide normally inside of it. Lock the piston with the Circlip double check if is placed inside the groove. then put the dust cap back in its place.



we are now ready for bleeding, the act of removing old fluid inside the hoses and brake caliper.


Pour in fresh brake fluid onto the reservoir, make it full as in full tank. Press and release in cycle the brake lever and see the fluid gets in the hose. When doing this you will see bubbles when you are pressing the lever on and off. this means that the fluid is getting in. Make sure you are topping up when it goes to low level..Continue press and release the lever until it has already a slight tension to it..BLEEDING will come next.

When the lever got any tension on it..(i think you'll be needing someone to press that lever or if u can reach the bolt down while pressing the brake lever, I can call you that you a FANTASTIC man.. :) lol.

1. As you are pressing the brake lever,
2. open the drain plug to release the tension and push the fluid onto the drain plug. When there is no more fluid coming out from the drain hose we fitted onto the drain plug..close it again.and release the lever..press and release again the lever to get another tension and do it again the procedure on bleeding.

Do that procedure until all old fluid came out and that new fluid is coming out already.This is a sign that new fluid is already onto the system and you will have a tension on that front brake lever..

Top the reservoir on the correct level and return the DIAPHRAGM, the set plate and the cover and bolt it..The entire front brake system is done.

Now when you did cleaned the system and the front wheel is not spinning freely. Then the brake caliper is locking and in need of cleaning. The common problem with sticking disc brake is that, it does not return to the idle state when the piston of the caliper pushed the brake pad to the rotor..ROD that connects the caliper to its bracket as shown


This is the job of those number in 10, 15, 9, and 8. It needs to be cleaned.

photo shown next is where to put new grease so that when the caliper push the piston towards the brake pad..the grease will the push back the caliper to the idle state and releases the pad that is in contact with the brake rotor.






Good luck to your cleaning saga!!!..I have speed but without healthy BRAKING system...SPEED KILLS..

Motorcycle Voltage regulator protects the battery from overcharging by shunting the coil winding, that is why it is an important part of any motorcycle electrical. Replacing a defective unit is a trial and error process if u will be using an aftermarket one and not the OEM replacement.

This post is not against aftermarket but why in the world a friendly motorcycle shop offer a regulator like this. Costumer ask for one, seller gave this part, of course the buyer would not tell the difference between a good and a bad one, i'd say really a BAD one, a FAKE voltage regulator in a well formed housing. (sad).

Out from curiosity, a friend of mine who have a HONDA wave wanting his charging system be converted to full wave system to accommodate the High Intensity Discharge lighting installed. He decided to buy a full wave regulator from his friendly motorcycle part store. I was confused when i test for resistances between pins and only found two pin with resistance. And since i build regulators for motorcycle, i knew there is wrong his unit, that instead of using it, i installed my prebuilt one and enjoy using his HID.
As part of understanding voltage regulator, i opened the regulator. Patience if u want the board intact, hard headed mode if u want it dispose after opening.
Left is the problematic voltage regulator. This regulator will be left destroyed unlike from my previous post here FULL wave regulator that i need the board intact and replicate it. From the very first smash of my flat screwdriver on the aluminum casing, I already know it is FAKE!!! no circuit board.

Moving on, I also noticed bits of sand, What the heck? Sand inside the unit, hmm (at the last of this page i'll tell you the purpose of that sand.)

No circuit board is found on the connector side, All you can see is on the photo.

DIODE. yes only diode soldered on two pin, other two pin not connected, so that is why i  only get one resistance from all the pin available. Too bad. If this unit was place and use on board your motorcycle. Lots of thing may happen, One can overcharge your battery, boil the plates and spill out electrolyte that will cause corrosion on chassis and metal of your bike. Two is overvoltage within your entire electrical system, bust the lights, a defective igniter, and worst, Fried wiring harness.

So as part of educational purposes, Be aware of fake voltage regulators, buy from a reputable store or online products, and do buy a branded one.

CONCLUSION:
The sand was placed inside the fake regulator for one purpose only. WEIGHT. the regulator without any circuit board and just diode will weigh less and may be very noticeable by the buyer. (clever idea huh!) but you cannot fool the ones who know to use the resistance meter. (take that!!!)

RECOMMENDATION
use multimeter and test all possible pin available with the probe, if u get one resistance from all the pin, it is likely to be fake. Just don't plug it in your motorcycle electrical system, test it on the bench.