Info Manual

Raider R150 dc-cdi can rev as much as 13,000 rpm, but when use to other suzuki made underbone motorcycle such as shogun pro 125cc, the performance is almost identical to the shogun oem cdi. So out from curiousity, the cdi internal needs to be exposed, like the one i did to this shogun pro 125cc CDI and to this Kawasaki barako 150cc CDI.

Let the tear down begin


First the case must be destroyed and removed to gain way to the rubber coating of the board as shown, any type of diagonal cutter can do this job.

closer look of the cdi without and removed plastic cover case.

another close up view before manually scraping that rubber epoxy that covers the entire components of the cdi. (this will be needing a huge sign of patience)

After hours of scraping  the bits of broken glass that covers the cdi together with the sticky rubber epoxy, the cdi board is almost expose.

Almost done the top layer of this cdi. If you take a closer look at the CDI board of the shogun and the barako 125, they are almost identical, parts are the same, MCU are the same using the motorola processor, uses the same High Voltage generating circuit, identical capacitor with a value of 2.0uf/400v. all of them has the Tx and Rx port for PC communication that up until now, i have not found any that will be used to communicate. What differentiate this with the other two, this cdi have a TACHOMETER out for the panel. Yes a tachometer signal out for getting the engine revs at real time. Sooner, i will draw the schematic of this cdi.

The three board side by side:


The Shogun Pro 125 has a TPS input pin whileas the Raider 150 CDI uses the same pin but in this case a tachometer out. The kawasaki barako on the other hand is not connected elsewhere.

PINOUT
Kawasaki Barako DC-CDI
1. Ignition Coil OUTPUT
2, Ground
3. Ground
4. Pulser coil INPUT
5. No connection
6. 12V B+ Input






Shogun PRO 125cc DC-CDI
1. Ignition Coil OUTPUT
2. Ground
3. Optional For HV out.. (actual have no connection)
4. Pulser coil INPUT
5. TPS INPUT (from carburetor)
6. 12V B+ INPUT

Raider 150 (gen2) DC-CDI
1. Ignition Coil OUTPUT
2. Ground
3. Ground
4. Pulser Coil INPUT
5. Tachometer OUTPUT
6. 12V B+ INPUT

Disclaimer: no copyright infrigement, the purpose of exposing this OEM CDI are for educational purposes only.

Motorcycles with disk brake such as those of shogun 125, raider R150 tend to stick when brake is engage if it is not maintain properly. The brake caliper won't return at the rest position. Bleeding the fluid alone will not help on removing the sticking caliper problem, and the solution is quite simple and can be done even without removing the wheel.

Looking at figure 1

figure 1

with the brake pad remove, if the caliper cannot be moved away from the disk rotor then the rods that hold it to the bracket is already in need of cleaning and re-greasing.

There are two ways to remove it, and my way is not taking out the wheel.
Figure 2 shows how is simply take out your muffler. To get it out from the bracket. Two rods are holding it in place, one is fixed and one is removable like of a bolt as shown in
figure 3. Just loosen it using an open #12 until the bolt is fully out from the bracket.
Figure 4 will allow you now to move the caliper all the way up for removal, away from the bracket.

figure 5

Figure 5 and 6 shows the rod that needs cleaning, If these rods have rough surfaces, sand it with 800 grit followed by 1000 to smooth it and freely move later.
Figure 7 shows where to put grease after cleaning those holes. When done re-greasing, Clean the external surface of the caliper for dirt and mud (optional)

It is ready for re-insertion. Procedure is just the opposite of the removal.

and that's it. Sticking brake caliper is gone and your back wheel will freely spin now.