Showing posts with label E-10. Show all posts
Showing posts with label E-10. Show all posts
Tuesday, October 20, 2015
ALL about E-10
Fuel + Ethanol = THE FACTS
1. The legal and manufacturer recommended limit for ethanol in conventional gas is 10%. The actual percent ethanol found at individual pumps/stations varies, and will change with each (daily) fuel delivery.
Note: On April 21st, 2009 the EPA received an application from ACE, Growth
Energy and 54 ethanol producers seeking to increase E10 to 15% ethanol.
Ethanol is usually added by the local fuel distributors/suppliers, not at the major gas brand company refineries. Gas stations are not legally required to monitor gas daily for accurate/exact percentage ethanol.
2. Several states still do not label pumps (E10 sticker) when ethanol alcohol is added to gas, including:
District of Columbia, Indiana, Kansas, Kentucky, Maryland, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, Nevada, New Jersey, North Carolina, and Ohio; New Hampshire may soon discontinue labeling.
3. Ethanol is an ethyl alcohol, renewable fuel and is used to oxygenate gas. Ethanol is a solvent, cleanser, degreaser, drying agent, antifreeze and octane enhancer. Petroleum oil fuel that contains ethanol will attract and absorb water; Oil (gas) and water do not mix.
4. Before switching to E-10, make sure to remove all gas from tank if containing MTBE. Also, remove all water, dirt, rust, and sediment from tank. Replace parts that are not resistant to alcohol. Plastic and rubber parts, hoses, and seals are most vulnerable. To be compatible with higher oxygen content of ethanol-blended gasoline, fuel system parts and pumps, piston and carburetor, oxygen sensors, may need to be changed or adjusted.
5. Replace the gas in your fuel tank at least every 1-3 weeks.
Shelf life of E-10 fuel is only about 3 months in an ideal environmental (low humidity) storage conditions.
6. Choose a higher octane premium E10 gasoline (91-93) when your engine is at greater risk; Extended storage, lives in a water environment, vented fuel tank in humid environment, etc. Lean, water-diluted fuel drops octane and causes fuel starvation.
7. Know the symptoms and negative effects of high alcohol and/or water contaminated gas.
ENGINE DAMAGE AND MALFUNCTION CAUSED BY ETHANOL OFTEN INCLUDES:
Stalling, hesitation during acceleration, clogged fuel filters and carburetor, damage to fuel and VRO pumps and pistons, damage to fuel injectors, disintegration and dissolving of engine parts (especially rubber and plastic), drying-out and cracking of parts, hoses and seals, and much more.
8. Frequently check gasoline for signs of water contamination (WC) and phase separation (PS). Two distinct layers can be seen after WC/PS. Alcohol and water combine and drop to the bottom of tank leaving an upper petroleum octane deficient layer. PS gas is contaminated and should not be used.
9. Prevent external water and moisture (high humidity) from coming in contact with E-10 gas.
Keep engine well lubricated to prevent water damage and rusting. Check that fuel lines are sealed and intact. If available for your engine, install a water separator filter of 10-12 microns.
10. Safely Removing Water from Phase Separated E10 Fuel:
Be aware that when E10 gas is phase-separated, the bottom layer contains both water and "octane-enhancing" ethanol. When you remove the water/ethanol lower layer, the upper petroleum layer becomes octane deficient. Drop usually equals 2 to 4 octane points. Running an engine on below recommended octane will cause drivability issues and parts damage (e.g. piston/valve damage).
11. Check your engine owner’s manual for recommended fuel type and octane rating.
Many older engines, luxury cars, classic cars, lawn and other small gas-powered equipment and several marine and motorcycle engines often prohibit or warn against the use of E10 and other alcohol gas blends. Marine engines have greatest risk for water absorption, corrosion, parts disintegration and engine damage.
12. Use caution when choosing gas additive products to "prevent" or "fix" E10 gasoline problems. Watch out for deceptive advertising by numerous new ethanol "miracle" product companies. Ethanol already in fuel (up to 10% legal max) often replaces your need for additional additives since it is a powerful solvent, cleanser, antifreeze, octane enhancer and water absorber
13. Avoid alcohol-based fuel additives and gas treatment products with E-10 fuel. Too much alcohol will increase your risk for engine damage. All current major engine manufacturer warranty statements prohibit use of gas with over 10% ethanol. (Excludes FFV's). Damage will not be covered when cause is contaminated gasoline. Octane boosters, fuel system cleaners and conditioners often contain ethyl alcohol.
14. Never use E85 fuel (85% alcohol) in an engine not designed for it. Check vehicle gas cap for E85 label.
15. Know the specific fuel laws and E10 labeling laws for your state. State-by-state laws vary widely and have changed often since the widespread distribution of ethanol. In 2008, several states passed laws to add ethanol to all public gas supply. Other states are now passing laws to leave ethanol out of premium gas...
This information is a general guideline only for conventional vehicles and gas-powered engines using E10 gasoline.
Read more »
1. The legal and manufacturer recommended limit for ethanol in conventional gas is 10%. The actual percent ethanol found at individual pumps/stations varies, and will change with each (daily) fuel delivery.
Note: On April 21st, 2009 the EPA received an application from ACE, Growth
Energy and 54 ethanol producers seeking to increase E10 to 15% ethanol.
Ethanol is usually added by the local fuel distributors/suppliers, not at the major gas brand company refineries. Gas stations are not legally required to monitor gas daily for accurate/exact percentage ethanol.
2. Several states still do not label pumps (E10 sticker) when ethanol alcohol is added to gas, including:
District of Columbia, Indiana, Kansas, Kentucky, Maryland, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, Nevada, New Jersey, North Carolina, and Ohio; New Hampshire may soon discontinue labeling.
3. Ethanol is an ethyl alcohol, renewable fuel and is used to oxygenate gas. Ethanol is a solvent, cleanser, degreaser, drying agent, antifreeze and octane enhancer. Petroleum oil fuel that contains ethanol will attract and absorb water; Oil (gas) and water do not mix.
4. Before switching to E-10, make sure to remove all gas from tank if containing MTBE. Also, remove all water, dirt, rust, and sediment from tank. Replace parts that are not resistant to alcohol. Plastic and rubber parts, hoses, and seals are most vulnerable. To be compatible with higher oxygen content of ethanol-blended gasoline, fuel system parts and pumps, piston and carburetor, oxygen sensors, may need to be changed or adjusted.
5. Replace the gas in your fuel tank at least every 1-3 weeks.
Shelf life of E-10 fuel is only about 3 months in an ideal environmental (low humidity) storage conditions.
6. Choose a higher octane premium E10 gasoline (91-93) when your engine is at greater risk; Extended storage, lives in a water environment, vented fuel tank in humid environment, etc. Lean, water-diluted fuel drops octane and causes fuel starvation.
7. Know the symptoms and negative effects of high alcohol and/or water contaminated gas.
ENGINE DAMAGE AND MALFUNCTION CAUSED BY ETHANOL OFTEN INCLUDES:
Stalling, hesitation during acceleration, clogged fuel filters and carburetor, damage to fuel and VRO pumps and pistons, damage to fuel injectors, disintegration and dissolving of engine parts (especially rubber and plastic), drying-out and cracking of parts, hoses and seals, and much more.
8. Frequently check gasoline for signs of water contamination (WC) and phase separation (PS). Two distinct layers can be seen after WC/PS. Alcohol and water combine and drop to the bottom of tank leaving an upper petroleum octane deficient layer. PS gas is contaminated and should not be used.
9. Prevent external water and moisture (high humidity) from coming in contact with E-10 gas.
Keep engine well lubricated to prevent water damage and rusting. Check that fuel lines are sealed and intact. If available for your engine, install a water separator filter of 10-12 microns.
10. Safely Removing Water from Phase Separated E10 Fuel:
Be aware that when E10 gas is phase-separated, the bottom layer contains both water and "octane-enhancing" ethanol. When you remove the water/ethanol lower layer, the upper petroleum layer becomes octane deficient. Drop usually equals 2 to 4 octane points. Running an engine on below recommended octane will cause drivability issues and parts damage (e.g. piston/valve damage).
11. Check your engine owner’s manual for recommended fuel type and octane rating.
Many older engines, luxury cars, classic cars, lawn and other small gas-powered equipment and several marine and motorcycle engines often prohibit or warn against the use of E10 and other alcohol gas blends. Marine engines have greatest risk for water absorption, corrosion, parts disintegration and engine damage.
12. Use caution when choosing gas additive products to "prevent" or "fix" E10 gasoline problems. Watch out for deceptive advertising by numerous new ethanol "miracle" product companies. Ethanol already in fuel (up to 10% legal max) often replaces your need for additional additives since it is a powerful solvent, cleanser, antifreeze, octane enhancer and water absorber
13. Avoid alcohol-based fuel additives and gas treatment products with E-10 fuel. Too much alcohol will increase your risk for engine damage. All current major engine manufacturer warranty statements prohibit use of gas with over 10% ethanol. (Excludes FFV's). Damage will not be covered when cause is contaminated gasoline. Octane boosters, fuel system cleaners and conditioners often contain ethyl alcohol.
14. Never use E85 fuel (85% alcohol) in an engine not designed for it. Check vehicle gas cap for E85 label.
15. Know the specific fuel laws and E10 labeling laws for your state. State-by-state laws vary widely and have changed often since the widespread distribution of ethanol. In 2008, several states passed laws to add ethanol to all public gas supply. Other states are now passing laws to leave ethanol out of premium gas...
This information is a general guideline only for conventional vehicles and gas-powered engines using E10 gasoline.
Small Engine EFI conversion Kit
World's first small engine conversion kit. This kit will allow you to change your carbureted engine to fuel injection. The only thing needed is a 12 volt charging system. Due to the era of E10 or ethanol based gasoline, small engines that utilizes the conventional carburetor are most affected. Fuel consumption up, thus spending more money on gas fill up. low mileage, erratic idle, and engine power down, frequent carb tuning. sometimes engine pull hard, and in times pull so weak.
I think its time to give way for those EFI be fitted on small engines, like scooters and underbones here in Asia. particularly here in the Philippines.
Suzuki, Honda, already offered 125cc small engine that uses EFI system particularly in indonesia, and from their testimony in a forum, where i am also still active, they say YES, the EFI performs better, little tweaking since fuel delivery is electronically controlled by the ECU, get a much higher mileage, thus spending less on gasoline.
Naphthalene use as fuel mileage
Can this magical white balls do the trick on improving fuel mileage using the poor e10 based gasoline. Eversince i used this greener fuel on my motorcycle, it performs really bad, worse of it, i cannot even get me rolling to 200km on a 4.5 liter full tank the way i used to have using non e10 gas.
Naphthalene was used as a fuel, before WWII, and race car drivers used it to boost octane by adding 5 mothballs to every gallon of fuel. That amount caused the engine to carbonize. Today, many are using it to get better mileage out of gasoline and diesel engines. Some have reported fantastic gains up to 96% in V8 engines.
Old Fashioned Moth Balls are 99.5% pure Naphthalene. That is the only type of mothball that works. A friend told me they are illegal in Europe.It can takes a mothball an hour or more to dissolve in your tank. Some people crush them up first. In cooler weather, it will take longer; take this into consideration in order to prevent a buildup in your tank.Oh, the gas pills you hear about - Naphthalene :)
Oh well its worth to try, we might even know unless we try, Am i right?
Testing fuel for alcohol content
Alcohol doesn't have as many BTU's as gasoline, and it doesn't perform the same. I will show you how to test your fuel for alcohol content.
Read more »
Things You'll Need:
- 100 ml graduated cylinder
- fuel sample
- tap water
- Collect a fuel sample from your car's fuel supply. I use a clean 1 liter pop bottle that is clean and dry (so you contaminate your sample).
- Pour 90 ml of your fuel sample into the 100 ml graduated cylinder. Add 10 ml of water to the cylinder and cover the top with your finger and shake. Shake it hard.
- shake really hard. You want to emulsify (break up into zillions of minute particles) the water so those water bubbles come into contact with all the gas molecules
Let the fuel sample set for 10 to 15 minutes. The alcohol will combine with the water and separate from the fuel. Read the line where it separates.Now comes the calculation, with 100 ml = 100% Looking at the cylinder, the way we would read this is: The line is on the 53 and we know 10% was water to begin with. The water will settle to the bottom because water is heavier than gasoline. 53-10=43 This sample would be 43% alcohol, which would be way to much for a 10% blend and most cars would run very poorly if they started at all.
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